Lack of power/ fuel? Metal fuel line replacement?

[movin on]

I was driving my 91 TSI around after upgrading the injectors (FIC 650), rewiring pump (walbro 190), and installing a manual boost controller. I was slowly turning up the boost and it was set at 13 psi when I decided to get onto open road out of town to see what it would do when I brought up the rpms some. After my boost hit 13 psi it went back down to 10 psi and didn't pull very well. It seemed to me like I was lacking fuel, so I checked my fuel line before the fuel filter and when it bends to come up to the filter, the metal line was kinked for about an inch as if it had been bent a few times.

I was wondering if this could be causing my lack of power? I already took care of boost leaks and it is a fully rebuilt engine. I was wondering what I could do to eliminate the kinked part. There is already a fitting on the line about two inches above the kinked area.

[movin on]

Would there be any negative effects of just running high pressure lines from the pump to just about the filter? That way I can get rid of one fitting and skip putting in another. Also, make my fuel filter change much easier.

[kDoSrMi]

lack of power is kind of general.. Do you know what fuel cut is/feels like? if so is it something like that?

So when you launch/floor it you loose power? did it do it when normal driving?

[movin on]

I know what the definition is, but never experienced it. I have a stage 3 chip that eliminates that. Have not launched the car, or floored it since the upgrades. It pretty much sits in the garage at my parents house besides when I attempt to work on it. I am going to see if I get knock next time I take it out when it acts funny. That should answer my power issue, now, just how to fix it?

[kDoSrMi]

I know what the definition is, but never experienced it. I have a stage 3 chip that eliminates that. Have not launched the car, or floored it since the upgrades. It pretty much sits in the garage at my parents house besides when I attempt to work on it. I am going to see if I get knock next time I take it out when it acts funny. That should answer my power issue, now, just how to fix it?

i guess i really dont know how to explain it because it can happen like hardcore fuel cut or minor... and not sure what chip you mean..

a knock is WAYYY worse than anything with fuel... knock is like a spun bearing (like myself when bough the car a week after) or you valves and pistons shaking hands.. 2 most common knocks...

can you rev past 3k rpm? basically list every sound description and vibration/shake and noise so we can try to see what your experiencing. even if it doesnt seem relevant throw it out there.. never hurts..

[Devlish]

have your checked your A/F since you think that line is kinked? probably not a good idea to drive hard until you fix that. you can buy replacement fuel lines to take care of that kinked line.

however, i doubt that is the problem. it should still boost fine but would run extremely lean, or hit fuel cut. I would check the boost controller again. you might have boost spike, and it's spiking to 13, then settling back down to 10psi. or, the boost controler could be installed incorrectly, and you're running off wastegate pressure. what are you using to control those 650 injectors? could be running pig-rich... that will make it feel like a slug

a stage 3 chip to eliminate boost cut? interesting.

as far as knock causing your lack of power... probably wouldn't be noticable unless you have a LOT of knock. but then you got bigger problems. a few degrees of knock you won't even notice, the car will pick up on it and pull timing to compensate. but you shouldn't really notice a big difference. not to mention 13psi with 650's... no knock should be present

[movin on]

http://simon.chi.il.us/ECU/ECURepair.html

Here is the guys site. I am surprised you have not heard of him. This what the chip offers

Idle speed,
Adjust Rev Limit,
Eliminate Fuelcut,
Octane Value Reset,
A/C Cutout,
Selectable factory Boost Gauge display,
Check Engine light as a Shift Light,
2-step or 3-step stutterbox with Selectable RPMs (Launch / Shift RPM)
Fuel Injector Size Compensation,
Deadtime Compensation,
MAF Compensation,
Enhanced Closed-loop operation,
CEL code flashing.

Yes, I can rev past 3K, just feels like my car is not really pulling. I just removed my narrowband and hope to get a wideband. My narrow band did say I was running lean. I checked my boost controller three times to make sure I put it in right because my car is driving me nuts. It is a hallman mbc with the in-cabin controller.

[Devlish]

sounds a lot like the old TMO stuff. funny. that stuff was the amazing shit to have!!!! ...7yrs ago

[movin on]

Especially, for having my ecu caps replaced, socketed, and chipped for under $200 is what I payed.

[Morpherex]

It's definatly not fuel cut. Stock turbo or evo3? Stock air sensor or upgraded? Fuel cut basically feels like bogging. It feels like the car falls on it's face, climbs back up, falls again. What causes it is not lack of fuel, but the airflow sensor not being able to read how much air is in your intake anymore.

You can run SS line from the pump to the filte. That or you could probably but I wouldn't recommend it try to take a pipe cutter, cut out the part, flare it a bit so it's got something to help seal it and use rubber line. Or fix it with hard fuel line and fittings if you're good with a flaring tool.

Also, Steve from Charlston IL is the shit. He really knows his stuff.

[movin on]

Evo3, 2gmaf I am looking at changing all the lines to ss lines. I would like to just cut the bad area off and run a rubber line to the filter, because I really don't want to spend the money on the ss line and the fittings that are needed for the "stevetek upgrade" for those of you on dsmtuners.

Also, I checked my plugs and they are white, so I know I am running lean. I know my father has a pipe cutter laying around, but no flaring tool.

[movin on]

I was able to bend the fuel line back and now the car is running a lot better. The bend made about a 100* angle and was kinked pretty bad. I looked into the fuel lines some more and saw that I have some upgraded lines already. I hope to put some miles on this car now that it has been sitting at my parents house for a while, because that is where I keep it and work on it until it gets painted.

[movin on]

I don't know if I have a nasty carbon build up or what. I have been driving the car about 12 miles at a time and if I run the rpms above 4K, the car smells, kind of like carbon burning off. Also, the car will get up to about 5psi and then the guage will drop to zero and the car will bog. If I put my foot into it, it tends to hold 12 psi, but still smells. Any ideas?

[Devlish]

bad gas?
rusty tank?
bad filter?
filter filled with nasty shit? (i.e. dirt/rust)

did you say you replaced the filter already? if not, start there.

[movin on]

Just changed the filter again, just to be sure. Could this happen if the octane is not high enough?

[Devlish]

bad gas? sure. sounds a little extreme. i wouldn't say "low octane" but rather a batch of bad gas.

[movin on]

Alright, I will get back to this thread when this gas is gone.

[movin on]

And see what happens with new stuff

[Morpherex]

Do you vent your crankcase to the atmosphere, use a catch-can with a breather on top, etc? If so what you smell is crankcase. I suggest getting a catch-can with a baffle to prevent the oil from going back into the intake. Run the crankcase to the can, and the other line on the catch can to the intake.

[movin on]

I don't believe my car is that way, but I guess I could check. Do you have any pics to show what this would look like, because this is definetly not my specialty?

[the_mork]

Pick up some seafoam and use that on your car it will get rid of any carbon buildup inside the engine if you run it through a vacuum line and it will also show if you have any pre-turbo exhaust leaks which could also cause hesitation, stutter, low boost and smell. If you've never used it before make sure you are in a secluded area because it will cause "James Bond" smoke which will be what you use to find any exhaust leaks. If your engine bay fills up with white smoke then that is (part) of your problem.

[movin on]

After I sold the engine and a dsm guy looked at it, it turned out my CAS was running rich because the exhaust cam was off a tooth.

[Dizmm]

After I sold the engine and a dsm guy looked at it, it turned out my CAS was running rich because the exhaust cam was off a tooth.

:confused: Was this the same motor and stuff from when u had it up here in point. i know there was like 5 people (all DSM guys) here that all checked the timing and it was on, even compression test was perfect.

[movin on]

Sure is, I will have to thank my used to be mechanic in town.