2.3 L recommendations?

[dragonov_elite]

Here is what i am thinking about for a 2.3 l.

rotating assembly:

Ross pistons 9.0:1 compression
Crower I beam rods
Eagle forged crank 100mm
Clevite tri metal bearings
Clevite aluminum connection rod bearings
ARP Hardware

Head:

2g stock head or 1g haven't decided yet lol have both.
FFWDconnection bee-mad valve spring kit
bronze valve guides not sure on brand
stock cam gears
1mm over Supertech black nitride valves
brian crower 272's or the FP 3's not sure yet.

any recommendations for anything else?

[Dizmm]

I'd stay with the 2g head.

[dsm430]

more flow w/ 1g

[dragonov_elite]

Does anyone know where there's a machine shop that will do porting of the intake and exhaust runners on the 2g head? I like the 2g design but the 1g head is already proven its self over and over again. so its kinda a dilemma.

I think a ported 2g head would be a monster on a stroker like the one i'm going to be building ;).

[Stash]

more flow w/ 1g

Stock vs. stock yes. However the 2g has a better port angle to the intake valves and maintains better velocity. Just because the 1g has larger ports doesn't necessarily make it better. This is one of those arguments that will always be around.

[Dizmm]

its not about size, its about design and as stash said, velocity. I think the 2g head reduces the amout of turbo lag.

[Devlish]

check with DontStopMe... he;s done port work and valve jobs on DSM heads before. 1G i think, but i'm sure he'd do the 2g as well.

[Jake]

Stay with the 2g head. Unless you are going to strap a 42r on it, the 2g head will preform better.

I have ported many, many heads as well.

No need for the Beehive springs. Waste of money when you can get a set of dual springs for $100 that will preform the same on a 2.3L. Remember, you arent going to be reving it over 8-9k. I ran a set of supertech dual springs to 10k last year and was going to use them again this year at 11k. You could probably get away with a set of Brian Crower springs if you plan on only running the 272s.

Good choice on pistons and rods... Those look good.

Crank is over priced and unnecessary when you can get a good 4g64 crank for $200 or less. But if you really want it, all its going to hurt is your wallet.

I wouldnt run clevite aluminum rod bearings in a 2.3L. This is just my personal preference and my experience. I've seen a few 2.3's with abnormal wear on the rod bearings when using the clevite aluminum bearings. The rod ratio puts great stress on the bearings and piston skirts. I have had good results with ACL, as well as King bearings. ACL tri-metal would have to be my number one choice. Again, just my opinion and experience.

ARP main bearings really arent that big of a deal. If you were to use them, I would suggest dowel pins in the main caps and possibly even a main girdle if you are using a 6 bolt. If you are rebuilding the 7 bolt. I would suggest using dowel pins in the main girdle no matter what.

1mm oversized valves arent necessary either. A lot of people have run 9s on the stock valves.

Valve guides/seats would be a good idea. Get a 3-5 angle valve job whether its stock or supertech valves.

FP3's would be decent for the 2.3L. Like I said before, if you go this route, save yourself a hundred bucks or so and get the dual springs. They are just as good as the beehive springs at the RPMs you will be sticking to.

I would also suggest no larger than a .020 overbore, along with a decently loose cylinder to piston clearance as well as ring gap. This way, the motor will take anything you want to throw at it without hurting it one bit.

If you would like to talk more about this, jump on MSN sometime and hit me up.

[DontStopMe]

check with DontStopMe... he;s done port work and valve jobs on DSM heads before. 1G i think, but i'm sure he'd do the 2g as well.
One of each. Stash is correct, the 2G head is better designed and will flow more better that a 1G.

2g have a smaller port but are better designed so the air will flow directly to the valve rather than bounce around.

http://students.uwsp.edu/peler141/1G_vs_2G_intakes.jpg

[dragonov_elite]

thanks for all the good info guys and yea Jake where would you get that 4g64 crank? all i ever see are kinda over priced for a stock crank but then again i wasnt looking very hard. well what do you guys think of the https://www.jacksonautomachine.com/html/shopping/list_section.cfm?sectionId=26
is it over priced and not worth it with the 2g head? well i have a 6bolt already on an engine stand so I'm just gonna use that because its there taking up space lol.

thanks for the info on the bearings Jake.

yea the 2g head is definitely going on. will i have to ream the head bolts to get the 2g head to bolt to the 6bolt block?

[Dizmm]

yea the 2g head is definitely going on. will i have to ream the head bolts to get the 2g head to bolt to the 6bolt block?

You will use ARP's for the 6 bolt engine, and if you put a 2g head on, you'll need to bore out the holes in the head a little bit.

[dragonov_elite]

ok thanks dizmm thats what i thought but was not 100% sure.

Would you guys suggest o-ringing the block for a high boost application?
and if it where o-ringed what HG would be a good choice?

[Dizmm]

I like using stock HG as it creates a weak link. I'd rather blow a HG every year than a piston or rod through the block.

[Coty]

ok thanks dizmm thats what i thought but was not 100% sure.

Would you guys suggest o-ringing the block for a high boost application?
and if it where o-ringed what HG would be a good choice?

No need to o-ring. What turbo are you going with? That plays a big part in what you are trying to put together here.

[dragonov_elite]

I want to run an FP 3065 or maybe something larger like a 35R.

[Dizmm]

I want to run an FP 3065 or maybe something larger like a 35R.

Are you sure? Thats gonna be near $15k in supporting mods.

I could never do a big project like that unless i had another car to beat on in the mean time. i like working on my car, but i LOVE beating on my car MUCH MORE.

Full AMS stroker kit:
http://www.dsmparts.com/customer/product.php?productid=714&cat=180&page=1

[dragonov_elite]

Yea i know its gonna be some money but i plan on being in the game for a while ;)

Well right now i am beating on a 93 Subaru legacy 2.2 L turbo car so its all gravy lol. Its a little slower but still fun and it doesn't come with a police escort lol.

I'm just gonna build the motor my self because i have a good friend that is coming back from Norway and he has a very good grasp on building a bullet proof 4g63 engines. i am actually thinking of getting an E316g or a 20g for a starter turbo and see what i can pull out of either one them.

Nice find on the stroker kit dizmm.

[Dizmm]

well keep us updated on the build. pics would be cool too!

[Coty]

High reving 2.0 for the win.:)

[Coty]

I want to run an FP 3065 or maybe something larger like a 35R.

You could easily run a 3065 on a stock bottom end with no problem. We made a little over 400 with a garret 3076 on a 7 bolt a couple months back. I'd go bigger. I should be posting updates on my setup to see how that turbo performs.

[dragonov_elite]

No need to o-ring. What turbo are you going with? That plays a big part in what you are trying to put together here.

Well if i can get away with it i would like to build a mid to low 11 sec street machine with a mind set for time attacks lol gotta dream big sometimes. What would you guys recommend for a turbo that has my goal potential? Yea i will definitely keep the build updated with pics not only for you guys but also for insurance purposes. post post!!! whats holdin yea back son?

[dragonov_elite]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/classifieds/showproduct.php

What do you guys think of this for a fast and cheaper option?

[DontStopMe]

^^^^^I don't see anything...:confused:

[dragonov_elite]

well lets try this again.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/classifieds/showproduct.php

or if that doesnt work try this in your address bar.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=72316&cat=7

[DontStopMe]

those links are exactly the same.

[dragonov_elite]

I changed the second link again.

[DontStopMe]

That one works. I think shipping will kill you on that one. Otherwise not a bad deal if a reputable shop built it and you could drive to pick it up.

[dragonov_elite]

What do you think i could see for rpm levels from this motor? I have read a bit about 2.3s now but don't know much about the 2.4 as like a rpm threshold, Crankwalk from the 2.4L 7 bolt block.

[Stash]

What do you think i could see for rpm levels from this motor? I have read a bit about 2.3s now but don't know much about the 2.4 as like a rpm threshold, Crankwalk from the 2.4L 7 bolt block.

rpms would be no different between the 2.3 and 2.4, they both use the same crank and rod length.

[Dizmm]

i know for a true 2.4, you either have to go with a 4g64 block or the older galant 4gcs block.

[dragonov_elite]

It is a true 4g64 with a 2g head 4g63t head thats been ported. its looking ohh so sweet lol.

[dragonov_elite]

Well i now have an update. I found my self some Pauter rods for a good price and i now have a 4gcs crank bought and ready. so now its all about a good loan and the build should be well off on its way. I am still thinking about sending the crank to get knife edged along with getting some Ross 2.3 pistons with a ceramic coating.